Merchandising School: Calculation (Woven)

Introduction:

In garments trade, Consumption and Costing is the primary requisition for a merchandiser. Fabric cost bears approximately 40%-45% of the total cost of any garments. So, calculation of correct fabric consumption is very important to achieve the maximum profit from an order

Fabric consumption calculation method for woven shirt:

A garments merchandiser should identify each parts of a “woven long sleeve shirt” before starting the consumption calculation-

Normally, a “woven long sleeve shirt” consists with the following parts-

1. Body parts (Body Length + Chest width),

2. Sleeve,

3. Collar,

4. Cuff,

5. Collar Band,

6. Pocket,

7. Yoke.

Suppose,

The buyer “GAP” forwards a “woven long sleeve shirt” item order (10000pcs) to you with the following specification.

Follow the below measurement chart.

Now, find the required fabric consumption for the order.

Solution:
Consumption method for the above order will be discussed in the below in part by part.

Let,
Fabric width- 55”
Wastage-10%

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Body Length from HSP + Allowance) × (1/2 Chest + Allowance) ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(76 × 56 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 20.31yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………….. (1)

So, consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest) is 20.31yds per dozen.
(Note: 2.54 used to convert into inch from cm and 36 used to convert into yds from inch).

Clarification of formula:

**Why 36
Ans: To convert inch into yard. 36 inch=1yard

**Why 55
Ans: Fabric width 55 inch. It may vary.

**Why 2.54

Ans: If Measurement is cm.

2. Fabric consumption for the Sleeve:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Sleeve Length + Allowance) × (Arm hole straight + Allowance) × 2 ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(66 × 28 × 2 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 17.64yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………… (2)

So, consumption for the sleeve is 17.64yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Collar:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Collar Length + Allowance) × (Collar width + Allowance) ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(44 × 8 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 1.68yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………………… (3)

So, consumption for the Collar is 1.68yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Cuff:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Cuff Length + Allowance) × (Cuff width + Allowance) × 2 ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(12 × 3 × 2 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 0.344yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………………. (4)

So, consumption for the Cuff is 0.344yds per dozen.

5. Consumption for the Collar Band:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Collar Band Length + Allowance) × (Collar Band width + Allowance) ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(33 × 4 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 0.63yds per dozen…………………………………………………………………………….. (5)

So, consumption for the Collar Band is 0.63yds per dozen.

6. Consumption for the Pocket:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Pocket Length + Allowance) × (Pocket width + Allowance) ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(14 × 11 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 0.735yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………. (6)

So, fabric consumption for the Pocket is 0.735yds per dozen.

7. Consumption for the Yoke:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= {(Yoke Length + Allowance) × (Yoke Height + Allowance) ×2×12} / (Fabric Width × 36 × 2.54)

= {(49 × 13 × 2 × 12) / (55 × 36 × 2.54) (In Yds.)

= 3.04yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………….. (7)

So, consumption for the Yoke is 3.04yds per dozen.

Now,
Total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is-

= [{Number (1) + Number (2) + Number (3) + Number (4) + Number (5) + Number (6) + Number (7)} + Wastage%]

= {(20.31 + 17.64 + 1.68 + 0.344 + 0.63 + 0.735 + 3.04) + 10%}
= (44.379 + 10%) per dozen.
= 48.82yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is 48.82yds per dozen.

And,
Total fabric consumption for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) woven long sleeve shirt is (48.82 × 833.33) = 40680.59yds.

Speech from the writer:
This type of article is too long but easy to understand than short-cut method. Hope it will be effective for you.

How to Calculate Garments Costing for Woven Bottom?

Introduction:

A garments business is totally stands on order profit. An order profit can be achieved through a proper costing. A proper costing can be done by using a proper garments costing method. So, ultimately, garments costing method is the heart of readymade garments business. To make an accurate costing of an order, today I will discuss about the method of garments costing for woven bottom.

You may follow How to Calculate Apparel Costing for Polo Shirt?

Method of Garments Costing for Woven Bottom (Factory Costing):

Before starting of a woven bottom costing, a woven garments merchandiser should confirm the following matters:

· Fabric Cost,

· Embroidery Cost,

· Printing Cost,

· Cost of Making (CM),

· Washing Cost,

· Accessories Cost,

· Commercial Cost,

· Others Cost.

Important tips***

· The very next duty of a woven garments merchandiser is to determine the fabric consumption and costing.

· After fabric consumption and costing, all the others necessary cost should be added with fabric cost to achieve total cost of a garment.

To clear all the confusion about the above discussion, now I will present an example for woven bottom costing in the below.

Example:

Suppose,

The Buyer “Metro-Tex” forwards a “Woven Denim Bottom” item order to you with the following specification.

Follow the below measurement chart.

	Actual Length in (inch)	Sewing Allowance	Measurement with Sewing Allowance
Total Length including Waist Height	46”	2”	48”
Waist Width	37”	2”	39”
HIP	43”	2”	45”
Thigh	20”	2”	22”
Bottom Width	14”	2”	16”
Back Pocket Length	8”	1”	9”
Back Pocket Width	7”	1”	8”
Belt Loop Length	1.5”	0.5”	2”
Belt Loop Width	0.5”	0.5”	1”
Pocket Bag Length	8”	1”	9”
Pocket Bag Width	7”	1”	8”

Now, determine the garments costing (on FOB) for the above order.

Solution:

Fabric width – 58”

(Here, the given fabric width is 58”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric. So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is 58-1 = 57”)

Wastage – 10%

Let,

1. Fabric Cost per yds- $3.70

2. Printing Cost per dozen- $1.40

3. Embroidery Cost per dozen- $3.80

4. Accessories Cost per dozen- $1.70

5. Washing Cost per pcs- $2.00 so, washing cost per dozen is – ($2.00 × 12) = $24.00

Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= (Body Length + Allowance × 1/2 Thigh width + Allowance × No. of Parts × 12) / (Fabric width × 36) (In yds.)

= (48 × 22 × 4 × 12) / (57 × 36) (In yds.)
= 24.70yds per dozen………………………………………………… (A)

So, fabrics needed for the body parts is 24.70yds per dozen.

Note: Body Length = [(Front Rise + Back Rise) / 2] + Inseam Length

2. Fabric consumption for the Back Pocket (2pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= (Back Pocket Length + Allowance × Back Pocket width + Allowance × No. of Parts × No. of Pocket × 12) / (Fabric width × 36) (In yds.)

= (9 × 8 × 2 × 2 × 12) / (57 × 36) (In yds.)
= 1.68yds per dozen……………………………………………………………….. (B)

So, fabrics needed for the back pocket is 1.68yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Pocket Bag (2pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= (Pocket Bag Length + Allowance × Pocket Bag width + Allowance × No. of Parts × No. of Pocket × 12) / (Fabric width × 36) (In yds.)

= (9 × 8 × 4 × 2 × 12) / (57 × 36) (In yds.)
= 3.37yds per dozen……………………………………………… (C)

So, fabrics needed for the pocket bag is 3.37yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Belt Loop (5pcs):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= (Belt Loop Length + Allowance × Belt Loop width + Allowance × No. of Parts × No. of Belt Loop × 12) / (Fabric width × 36) (In yds.)

= (2 × 1 × 2 × 5 × 12) / (57 × 36) (In yds.)
= 0.12yds per dozen……………………………………………. (D)

So, fabrics needed for the belt loop is 0.12yds per dozen.

Now,

By adding the equation B, C, D and E we can achieve the total fabrics consumption for the above order (per dozen)-

= (A +B +C + D) yds. Per dozen
= (24.70 + 1.68 + 3.37 + 0.12) yds. per dozen.
= 29.87yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the above order is 29.87yds per dozen.

As, fabric cost per yds is $3.70 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.87yds × $3.70) = $110.52

Now,

By adding all the following costs with total fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen.

Fabric cost per dozen ………………………… $110.52 ……………………. (E)
Printing Cost per dozen ………………………$1.40 ……………….…...…… (F)
Embroidery Cost per dozen ………………… $3.80 …………………………. (G)
Accessories Cost per dozen …………………..$1.70 …………….…………… (H)
Washing cost per dozen ……………………… $24.00………………………… (I)
Cost of making (CM)…………………………… $5.00 …………..…………….. (J)
Commercial cost ………………………….……. $0.60 ………………………….. (K)
Others cost ………………………………….……. $0.20 ………………………….. (L)

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen = (G +H + I + J + K + L)
= $ (110.52 + 1.40 + 3.80 + 1.70 + 24.00 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)
= $147.22 per dozen.

In case of factory, we received the order from a buying hose (Here, we got the order from Metro-Tex Buying House), so we have to pay 7%commission to them for that order.

So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $147.22 per dozen + 7% commission
= $157.53 per dozen.

In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB cost per dozen.

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-
=$157.53 + 10% profit
= $173.28

Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($173.28 / 12) = $14.44

So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $14.44

Speech from the writer:
Though, this type of article is too long but easy to understand than short-cut method. Hope it will be effective for you.

Besides,

If you read this article attentively then you can easily answer the following questions in the interview:

1. How to calculate garments costing for woven long pant?

2. How to calculate garments costing for long pant?

3. How to calculate garments costing for trouser?

4. How to calculate garments costing for Bermuda pant?

5. Method of garments costing for woven long pant.

6. Method of garments costing for long pant.

7. Method of garments costing for trouser.

8. Method of garments costing for Bermuda pant.

Woven Pant Consumption

Pant এর Consumption জন্য ৪ টি part সম্পক্ষে ভাল ধারনা থাকতে হবে।

1.Body

2.Back Pocket

3.Side Pocket

4.Belt Loop

=[{(Body Length*Body Thigh weight)*No of parts}+{(Back Pocket Length*Back Pocket weight) *No of parceX No of Pocket}+{(Bag Pocket Length*Bag Pocket weight) * No of parce*No of pocket}+{(Belt Loop Length*Belt Loop weight)*No of parce*2}*12]/Fabric width *36

=yeards