Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks.

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Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks. বদিউজ্জামান ( রুবেল )
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Various Screen Print Machine


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Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends Fabric

Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends Goods
(One bath one stage 
dyeing with disperse/ direct dyes at atmospheric pressure)

In this method the PC or CVC goods can be dyed at one single bath with 
disperse and selected direct dyes (stable in high temperature and compatible with polyester dyeing)- disperse for polyester and direct for cotton. Some direct dyes , for example , C.I. Direct Black 22 – the pH may be adjusted to 8-9 with soda ash.

Typical Recipe for Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends
Dispersing agent................................... = 0.5 – 1.0 g/l
Sequestering agent................................ = 1.0 – 2.0 g/l
Levelling agent...................................... = 1.0-2.0 g/l
Carrier .................................................= 1.0-3.0
Disperse dyes........................................= X%
Selected direct dyes.............................. =Y%
Acetic acid (50%) .................................= 0.5-2 g/l
Glauber salt ...........................................= 5.0 – 20.0 g/l
Temperature.......................................... = 90- 100
Time .....................................................= 60- 120 mins
M:L ......................................................= 1:10

Dyeing Procedure:
1. Seer the dye bath with substrate at 50 temperature and add dispersing agent, leveler, acetic acid , carrier and other auxiliaries , then urn the dye bath for 5-10 minutes.
2. Add both dyes and raise the temperatur4e to 90- 100 @ 1-2 C/min
3. Add glauber salt and run the bath for one to two bours at the same temperature.
4. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 – 80 over 10-15 minutes.
5. Drip the dye bath and carry on the aftertreatment process.

After Treatment Process:
1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.
2. Treat the fabric with suitable fixing agent for improving the wet fastness properties of dyed goods.
3. Soap wash according to vender recommendation.
4. Rinse twice with hot and cold water and then
5. Neutralize with acetic acid. 


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Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process

Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process

In this process, at first the polyester part is dyeing at high temperature e.g. 130-135oC. After completing the polyester part dyeing then cotton part is dyeing by using requires chemicals and control require temperature.


Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process

The sequence of dyeing process with disperse dyes is as follows (Polyester Part + Cotton part Dyeing) by using one bath dyeing method: 

Take water in the machine bath at required level. 
 
Then add Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, Dispersing agent. --Circulate the fabric for 5 mins at 50
oC
 
Add acetic acid and circulate for 5 mins at 50
oC
↓ 
Add Glauber’s salt and circulate for 5 mins at 50
oC
↓ 
Check PH of the dye bath. 
 
Add Polyester dye solution by linear dosing and circulate the fabrics for 10 mins at 50
oC
 
Add Cotton dye solution by linear dosing and circulate the fabrics for 10 mins at 50
oC
↓ 
Circulate the fabric and raise the temperature at 130
oC
 
Continuing Circulate the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at a constant temperature at 130
oC
 
Circulate the fabric and decrease the temperature at 70
oC
 
Then Check the shade of Polyester Part with approved shade. 
 
Circulate the fabric and raise the temperature at 82
oC
 
Continuing Circulate the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at a constant temperature at 82
oC
 
Add Soda ash by Curve dosing and continue circulating the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at 82
oC
 
Circulate the fabric and decrease the temperature at 70
oC
↓ 
Then Check the shade of Cotton Part with approved shade. 
↓ 
Rinse and Drain. 
↓ 
Add acetic acid and circulate for 10 mins at 60
oC
 
Drain. 
 
Add Soaping Chemical and circulate for 10 mins at 95
oC
↓ 
Drain. 
 
Circulate the fabric for 10 mins at 70
oC
↓ 
Drain. 
↓ 
Unload.
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Lab dip & Dyeing Recipes items (Single and double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric using disperse and reactive dye)

Single and double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric using disperse and reactive dye 

Materials and methods

Material:
Polyester/cotton blended fabric was used for the experiments. The details are as below.
Polyester/cotton: 60/40
GSM- 129
GLM- 367.440
TC- 250
Construction- CVC PERCALE- 45CVCX60CVC/ 176X70-112”

RFD parameters of the fabric
1. Absorbency: 3 sec
2. Whiteness: 81.76
3. Tegawa Rating: 8
4. pH of fabric: 5.0
Dyes and chemicals

Dyes:
Reactive Dyes: (Manufactured by Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., India)
Corazol Yellow RFT, Corafix Rubine GDN, Corazol Navy RFT, Novacron Yellow CRG, Coractive T. blue H2GP, Novacron Yellow S3R, Novacron Rubby S3B, Novacron Blue CR, Novacron Yellow CRG, Novacron Yellow GL, Novacron Red C2BL and Novacron Blue CR,

Disperse Dyes: (Manufactured by Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., India)
Coralene Yellow XF, Coralene Rubine XF2G, Coralene Blue XF, Coralene Dark Blue XF, Coralene Red XF and Coralene Yellow BXF,

Chemicals and auxiliary
Sodium hydroxide, Sodium carbonate, Sodium sulphate (Gluaber’s salt), Sodium hydro Sulphite, Premasol AMK (Anti-migrating agent), Salson NF (Wetting agent), Dekol FBSN (Non-ionic soap, BASF) and Acetic acid

Machines and the Laboratory Instruments
1) Mathis padder – Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
2) Rota dyer machine – Manufacture: R.B. Electronics and Engineering Pvt. Ltd., India
3) Mathis Pad steam range - Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
4) Mathis dryer - Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
5) Spectrophotometer – Manufacture: Data color, USA

Methods
Dyeing of polyester/cotton with single bath
In the laboratory, as per the dyeing recipe, the 100 ml of dye baths were prepared by adding the required amount of dye solution of disperse and reactive dyes, 2 % anti-migrating agent, 2 g/l wetting agent and acidic acid to adjust pH of 4-5. The fabric samples dyed was padded through dye bath at room temperature and then dried at 130oC. After drying the samples were thermo-fixed at temperature of 180-220oC for one min. Then the reactive dyeing was completed by adding 50 g/l glauber’s salt, 2 g/l caustic, 20 g/l soda ash and 2 g/l resist salt at temperature of 100oC. Finally samples were soaped with 2 g/l soap and then washed and neutralized.

Dyeing of polyester/cotton with double bath

Here dyeing of polyester and cotton was carried out in separate bath. As per the dyeing recipe, the 100 ml of dye baths were prepared by adding the required amount of disperse dye solution, 2 % anti-migrating agent, 2 g/l wetting agent and acidic acid to adjust pH of 4-5. The fabric samples to be dyed was padded through dye bath at room temperature and then dried at 130oC. After drying the samples were thermo-fixed at temperature of 180-220oC for one min. The reduction clearing was carried out with 2 g/l sodium hydrosulphite and 2 g/l sodium hydroxide at 70oC for 15-20 min. After reduction clearing, the samples were washed and neutralized. Then the reactive dyeing was carried out. The polyester dyed samples were padded through required amount of reactive dye, 50 g/l glauber’s salt, 2 g/l caustic, 20 g/l soda ash and 2 g/l resist salt at room temperature. After padding samples were covered with plastic paper and kept for fixation in pot of Rota dyeing machine at 100oC for 30 min. Finally samples were soaped with 2 g/l soap and then washed and neutralized. The following recipes were selected for the single and double bath dyeing.

Dyeing recipes:
Dyeing recipes: Recipe
Disperse Dye
Reactive dye
Recipe A
Coralene Yellow XF 7.5 g/l
Coralene Rubine XF2G 7.1 g/l
Coralene Blue XF 8.1 g/l
Corazol Yellow RFT 13.6 g/l
Corafix Rubine GDN 3.6 g/l
Corazol Navy RFT 3.9 g/l
Recipe B
Coralene Yellow XF 1.5 g/l
Coralene Red XF 4.5 g/l
Coralene Blue XF 1.7 g/l
Novacron Yellow S3R 4.5 g/l
Novacron Rubby S3B 4.3 g/l
Novacron Blue CR 1.5 g/l
Recipe C
Coralene Yellow XF 0.9 g/l
Coralene Dark blue XF 1.0 g/l
Novacron Yellow CRG 1.6 g/l
Corazol Navy RFT 7.2 g/l
Coractive T. blue H2GP 1.3 g/l
Recipe D
Coralene Yellow XF 1.07 g/l
Coralene Yellow BXF 0.6 g/l
Coralene Blue XF 1.0 g/l
Novacron Yellow GL 3.9 g/l
Novacron Red C2BL 0.6 g/l
Novacron Blue CR 1.1 g/l


Dyeing parameters
Parameters
Single bath
Double bath
Padding
Trough temp- room temp. Mangle pressure- 3 bar
Speed of mangle- 3 mtr/min
Trough temp- room temp.
Mangle pressure- 3 bar
Speed of mangle- 3 mtr/min
Drying and curing
Drying temp- 130oC
Drying speed- 1 mtr/min
Curing temp- 220oC
Curing speed- 0.7 mtr/min
Drying temp- 130oC
Drying speed- 1 mtr/min
Curing temp- 220oC
Curing speed- 0.7 mtr/min
Development of reactive dye in cotton portion
Trough temp- room temp
Mangle pressure- 2.0 bar
Speed of machine- 2 mtr/min
Steamer temp- 101oC-102oC
Dwell time- 1 min, 30 sec.
This process is not carried out for double bath method
Reduction clearing
This process is not carried out in single bath method
Time- 15-20 min
Temp- 70oC
Cotton portion dyeing
This process is not carried out in single bath method
Trough temp- room temp. Mangle pressure- 3 bar
Speed of mangle- 3 mtr/min
Washing
Washer temp-
1st washer- cold wash,
2nd washer- hot wash, 95oC,
3rd washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 5oC,
4th washer- soaping with 2g/l Dekol FBSN, 5oC,
5th washer- hot wash, 95oC,
6th washer- neutralization with 0.5 g/l acidic acid
Washer temp-
1st washer- cold wash,
2nd washer- hot wash, 95oC,
3rd washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 95oC,
4th washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 95oC,
5th washer- hot wash, 95oC,
6th washer- neutralization with 0.5 g/l acidic acid

Results and discussion

Polyester-cotton blended fabrics were dyed using single bath and double bath techniques. After dyeing the dyed samples were evaluated for fastness properties


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Dyeing Process of Viscose Fabric

Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

100% Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method
Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric. Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process.
Viscose fabric is not a common fabric like as cotton. The hand feelings of this fabric are same as silk & soft.   
Viscose yarn is a kind of yarn which made from cellulose base. Viscose is a type of man-made fiber but it is not a synthetic fiber like as polyester, because it is made from natural materials, but it is heavily processed.

Advantages of Viscose
Fabric which is made from viscose yarn is that takes dyes very well, so that, we can work with a wide variety of colors. Viscose fabric is very shiny; also it stays bright and colorful throughout the life of the products made with it. So, if you want to work with various kind of bold and colorfast fabric then you can choose viscose.   

Disadvantages of Viscose fabric
1)          Fabric tearing possibility is very high during the dyeing process.
2)          If the fabric remain wet for long times then some spot creates on it’s, which removal process is very difficult. But in cotton fabric we can do this very easily.
3)          If the fabric dyed uneven then it is very difficult to remove.
4)          During the dyeing process if we fail to maintain the temperature & pressure properly then fabric strength will be reduce.

Fabric 100% Viscose, S/Jersey Fabric, 160 GSM

Dyeing Process of 100% Viscose Fabric:
Actually viscose dyeing process is almost same as single jersey cotton spandex fabric. However, please find below the dyeing process.  
·         1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 
·         2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.
·         3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.
·         4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.
·         5th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water) 
·         6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 

·         Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) –
·         7th Step: Slitting 
·         8th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust.
·         9th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length. 
Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

However, I always suggest everybody to avoid the order with viscose fabric. Because dyeing of this is very risky & costly also.

Hope, it will be helpful for all of you
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Process flow chart of BURN OUT PRINT

Details of BURN OUT PRINT

The Burn out chemical (Acid) and working details as mentioned below:
1.      PC or CVC fabric.
2.      Paste + Any acid liberating salt (like Nacl, Na2 so4) 
3.      Steaming 
4.      Washing (Roubasting wash) 
5.      Burnout print complete 

Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points.


Please find below the step by step printing process of burn out print. 

1st Step  : Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.
2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR b)                  40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory. 
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but                         polyester portion will be remain same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color. 


Hope, above description of burn out print is clear to all. 

Now please find below some important points regarding the Burnout print-
1. Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. Clothes should be PC or CVC
2. 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print.
3. Process loss is very high. More than 35%
4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.
5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.
6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.

When you will calculate the cost of a burnout printed dress or clothes, please follow the below details-

1. Please add the burnout print price with fabric price.
2. As the sampling cost is very high so also consider it during the pricing.
3. Add process loss 35%
4. Normally the cost of burnout print is $4.5 to $5.0/kg 

Please find below the costing details of single jersey Burnout fabric. 
(This is an example only, price may change any time)

1. Yarn per Kg = $ 3.60
2. Fabric Knitting = $ 0.15
3. Scouring = $ 0.80
4. Burn Print = $ 5.00
5. Wash = $ 0.80
6. Dyeing = $ 1.50

———————————
Total = $ 11.85/Kg
Add process loss = 35%
The finish Burn out Fabric cost will be = $ 16.00/Kg


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