Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks.

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Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks. বদিউজ্জামান ( রুবেল )
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Dyeing –এ Fabric Processes গুলো কি কি ?

Dyeing – Fabric Processes গুলো কি কি ?
Knit fabric.
1.            Dyeing
2.            Squizzer
3.            Drying
4.            Compecting
5.            Carbon finish
6.            Swindling finish

For Fleece
1.            Dyeing
2.            Squeezer
3.            Drying
4.            Slitting
5.            Brush
6.            Stentering
7.            Compacting


Stanter Machine: ভেজা কাপর শুকানোর জন্য এই মেশিন ব্যবহার করা হয় GSM & Dia
Lafer Machine: Compecting, Finish, GSM
Ak-Machine: Manual Dyeing Machine
Dryer Machine: Tomball, বং কাপর শুকানো ,
Back Sewing: Open fabric সেলাই করে Tube করা হয 

Carbonize: Carbonize এর মাধ্যমে যে কোন Fabric এর সুতার Construction যানা যায়
Carbonize করার নিয়ম :
1.      প্রথমে একটি কাঁচের জারে  HSO4 নির্দিষ্ট মাত্রায় দিতে হবে
2.      সমপরিমান পানি দিতে হবে
3.      মিশ্রনে নির্দিষ্ট পরিমান কাপর ওজন নিয়ে কিছুক্ষন নারাচারা করতে হবে

4.      কাপরের Cotton সুতা গুলো পুরে যাবে , থাকবে শুধু Polyester পরিমান


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Carbonize করার নিয়ম : Carbonize এর মাধ্যমে যে কোন Fabric এর সুতার Construction যানা যায় ।

Carbonize: Carbonize এর মাধ্যমে যে কোন Fabric এর সুতার Construction যানা যায় ।
Carbonize করার নিয়ম :
1.       প্রথমে একটি কাঁচের জারে  HSO4 নির্দিষ্ট মাত্রায় দিতে হবে ।
2.       সমপরিমান পানি দিতে হবে ।
3.       ঐ মিশ্রনে নির্দিষ্ট পরিমান কাপর ওজন নিয়ে কিছুক্ষন নারাচারা করতে হবে ।

4.       ঐ কাপরের Cotton সুতা গুলো পুরে যাবে , থাকবে শুধু Polyester পরিমান ।
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How to calculate Net weight & Gross weight per carton ….

How to calculate Net weight & Gross weight per carton ….

→ When we calculate Net weight & Gross weight we follow the below rules:
  1. Take a style see the consumption,
  2. Total fabric consumption (Kg) - 15% = Actual fabric kg
  3. Actual fabric kg ÷ Order Quantity = Net weight per body
  4. Per body Net weight × Total body in per carton = Total Net weight per carton
  5. Per body net weight + Hanger weight (Accessories) = Per body Gross weinght
  6. Per body Gross weinght × Total body in per carton + Per empty carton weight = Gross weight per carton.
  7. Gross weight per carton × Total carton = Total Gross weight


Per empty carton weight:
☼ If carton measurement is: 60 cm × 40 cm × 20 cm = 1 kg
☼ If carton measurement is: 20 cm × 20 cm × 15 cm = 800 gram
এর নিচে হলে 500 বা 600 গ্রাম ধরতে হবে ।

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How to Measure Sewing Button Size and Quantity in Garments Factory

In garments factory, sewing button size is calculated by three units e.g. in mm (millimeter), inch and ligne in accordance with buyer's instructions.
Type of Button
·    Alloy button
·    Nylon button
·    Polyester button
·    Horn button
·    Jeans button
·    Snap button
·    Shank button
·    Coconut button
·    Wooden button

·    Metal Botton


For finding out Button Size in mm and inch, we need measure the dia of button with measurement tape. To find out Button Size in ligne, we need divide button's mm dia by 0.635.
Button's Dia

Button size calculation: 
1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm,
1 ligne = 0.635 mm

Now find out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia?

Answer: 10 ÷ 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L refers to ligne or ligner) 


(Formula: button dia in mm ÷ 0.635= button ligne)

To calculate button measurement follow below formula to get the button liner;
Button liner = Button diameter (mm) x 1/0.635

Find the below example with details;
Suppose, button dia is 15 MM then what will be the button liner?
Solution:
Button liner = Button Dia / 0.635
= 15MM / 0.635
= 24 L

For 15 mm dia button, we found button size 24L. Using above formula, we can calculate any button measurement for garments item.



Sewing Buttons


Button quantity calculation:
1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm
1 ligne = 0.635 mm
12 pcs = 1 dozen,
12 dozen = 1 gross,
12 gross = 1 GG
1 GG = 1728 pcs (GG means Great Gross)
Suppose:
A shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, find out total button quantity for the order.

Answer: 6 × 3456 ÷ 1728 = 12 GG. 
(Formula: number of buttons per product × order quantity ÷ 1728)
(1 GG = 1728 pcs)

Find out the button line/ligne with simple example:

Formula: Button ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or Button Dia in mm X 1 / 0.635


Q.1: Suppose, Button length (dia) is 8 mm, Now figure out the button ligne for 8mm?

Solution:
Button Ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635
                      = 8 / 0.635
                      = 12.59 ligne = 12 L                                  [ L = Ligne ]

Q.2: Find out the button ligne for 12mm button dia?

Solution:
Button Ligne = Button dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
                      = 12 X 1 / 0.635
                      = 18.897 ligne
                      = 18 L                                                   [ L = Ligne ]
Q.3: Shirt has 6 buttons, order quantity total 4320 pcs. Now find out total button quantity in GG?
Solution:
Button quantity in GG = per shirt button X total quanty / 1728
                                    = 6 X 4320 / 1728                  [ 1 GG = 1728 pcs ]
                                    = 15 GG

Note: We need to additional quantity (minimum 5%) in case of shortage due to defective or damage in bulk production.


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How to Calculate Poly Bag Costing ?

Poly bag: Poly bags, usually known as polythene bags, have a variety of uses in many industries. This is a plastic packet (pouch) used to contain garments destined for export or to merchandise so that apparels remain intact and they could not obtain dust, dirt or moisture.

Garments in a poly bag usually look smart and safe. Different type of materials used to produce poly bags such as PP, LD, HD, LLDP, LDPE, OPP and VINYL etc.

PP, LD, VINYL, LDPE & VINYL mainly used for special purposes. It is popular due to its glossy finish and excellent strength. Before PP and LD poly bags used for garments packing but now buyer like to use LLDP, LDPE for environmental friendly issues.


Because both are a recyclable item but others cannot be recycled easily. LDPE is little bit expensive than LLDP. Thus, some producer uses both elements proportionally while producing poly bag. Besides, a mixture of both items helps to make transparent poly bag. Thicknesses of a poly bag for general purpose are between 100-450 gauges. In addition to materials of poly bags, there may be different construction of poly bags:

1) Plain poly bags
2) Poly bags with flap
3) Lip and Gazette bags
4) Poly bag with button
5) Hanger Bags
6) Poly tubing/Heat Sealed
7) Adhesive Poly or self-sealing bags
8) Slider zip lock poly
9) Zip lock ploy

Thickness: Usually, three different ways can be used to count poly bag thickness.

1) Mil
2) Microns
3) Gauge

Mil: Mil is recognized as thousands of an inch. One mil means the thickness is of 1/1000 of an inch.

Micron: Micron is 1/1000 of an M.M

Gauge: It is globally recognized system for counting poly bag thickness. One gauge is equal to 1/100000 of an inch. So, one mil is equal to 100 Gauge.

Conversion: 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 Gauge.

Poly bags need to be treated if they are required to be printed. If poly bags undergo special treatment before printing, printing does not wash away. Generally flexo printing, griever printing, roto or screen printing are done in poly bags.

Garment industries require massive quantities of poly bags for export or merchandise their products.

Merchandiser needs to procure poly bag during dispatch the finish goods. There are no exact principles for costing poly bags. The cost of these items mainly depend on the number of quantity; style provided, design to be printed and the type of sealing mechanism etc.

We can follow below formula to find out poly bag costing.

Poly Bag Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry:

At the starting of poly bag costing, a garments merchandiser should identify the below information:
1.       Poly bag length in inch or centimeter, [ If length is CM,  convert CM to Inch )
2.       Poly bag Width in inch or centimeter, [ If Width is CM,  convert CM to Inch )
3.       Poly bag thickness in ( gauge < Micron < Mil ), 1 mil > 1 microns > 1 gauges
4.       ½ flap of poly bag (Here we take 1/2 length because the flap is single) (width of poly bag is double layer),
5.       Numbers of print on the poly bag (Print can be any types of logo, text, warning etc.),

6.       Rate of polymer per pounds (It can be PP (polypropylene), PE (polyethylene) and LDPE (low-density polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc.).

Q.1: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 29 cm, Half flap 5 cm, Width 26 cm & poly thickness 160 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?

Solution: Poly bags in KGs = {(Length (inch) + Half flap (Inch)) X Width (Inch) X Gauge / 3300}
                                             = {(29÷2.54 + 2.5÷2.54) X 26÷2.54 X 160 / 3300}
                                             = {(11.41 + 0.98) X 10.24 X 160 / 3300}
                                             = 6.15 KGs for 1000 pcs   
Note: We used half flap during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is double layer.

Q.2: Suppose, per pcs poly weight is 0.0397 KGs, polymer price 1 lbs (pound) is $0.35. Now find out the price of per pcs poly?

Solution:  Per pcs poly weight X Polymer price
              = 39.709 / 1000 X $0.35
              = 0.0397 X 2.2 X $0.35                  [1 kg = 2.2 lbs]
              = $0.03056 /pcs 

Q.3: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 30 inch, half flap 5 inch, width 25 inch & poly thickness 150 gauge, 1 lbs polymer price is $0.35. Now find out the cost 1 pcs poly bag?

Solution:
Poly bag cost = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 / 1000 X Price}
                                      = {(30 + 2.5) X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
                                      = {32.5 X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
                                      = 0.0369 KGs X $0.35
                                      = 0.0369 X 2.2 X $0.35                             [1 kg = 2.2 lbs]
                                      = $0.0284 / pcs 

Suppose,
A LDPE poly bag having 28” length, 3” flap, 14” width, 140 gauge thickness with self-adhesive facility and if cost of polymer is $.50 per lb. Polymer is the main ingredients to produce poly bag. Let’s find out cost of 1 PC poly bag.

So, weight of material = (28+3x14x140)/3300
     = 60760/3300
     = 18.412 kg/1000 pieces

Cost of Material        = 18.412 kgx$.50 per lb
= 18.41 x $1.1/Kg (as we know 1 kg=2.20 lb)
= $20.253/1000 pieces
= $0.020 (cost of 1pc poly bag)

Cost of Adhesive tape = 28”x$.002
              = $.056

So, final cost of 1 piece poly bag will be = ($0.020+$.056)
          = $0.076

If exist print, please include that cost with this poly bag costing. Please be noted that poly bag factory may not take under 1000 units for LDPE, PP bags order due to consideration of their raw materials wastage and production smoothness. But for gazette type of poly bags, it has to be over 5000 units. MOQ could be negotiable depends on supplier’s wiliness.


Else Example:

Suppose, the buyer “ZARA” suggests the below information about the poly bag of a garment export order.
Poly bag length – 28”,
Poly bag width- 24”,
Poly bag thickness – 160 gauge,
½ flap of poly bag- 5”,
Rate of LDPE polymer- $0.40 per pound.
Now, calculate the poly bag costing for the above order.

 

Solution:

At first, we have to calculate poly consumption according to given data.
Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg),
= {(Poly bag length + ½ Flap) × Poly bag width × thickness of poly bag} ÷ 3300

= {(28+5) ×24×160} ÷3300

= 38.4 kg per 1000pcs ply bag.

So, for 1000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed 38.4kg.

And,
For 1pc poly bag, LDPE polymer needed,
= (38.4/1000) kg= 0.04kg= (0.04 × 2.20) lbs= 0.08lbs

So, cost of LDPE polymer for 1pc poly bag ($),
= LDPE polymer needed for 1pc poly bag × LDPE polymer cost per pound (lb)
= 0.08 × 0.40
= 0.03
So, cost of LDPE polymer or cost for 1pc poly bag is $0.03
And,
Cost of 1000pcs poly bag,
= $(1000 × 0.03) = $30
Example-2
Poly bag consumption formula (for 1000 pcs):
(Length of Poly bag + ½ flap of poly bag) x Width of Poly bag x gauge of poly bag / 3300 

Buyer H&M, a basic T-shirt project quantity 250,000 pcs, garment has chest rubber print and we need to calculate polybag consumption and costing. Now we need single poly for this order. As per garment, we have below information; 
·    Poly bag length is 28 cm,
·    Poly bag width is 25 cm,
·    Thickness of poly bag is 160 gauge,
·    ½ flap of poly bag is 5 cm.
·    Rate of polymer is $0.40 per pound
Total consumption of poly bag (for 1000 pcs);
=(Length of Poly bag + ½ flap of poly bag) x Width of Poly bag x gauge of poly bag / 3300
= (28 + 5) x 25 x 160 / 3300
= 40 kg 
So, we need 40 kg polymer for 1000 pcs poly bag.
As per above garments quantity, we need polymer = 250000 / 1000 x 40 = 250 x 40 = 10,000 kg
And for 1 pcs poly bag, we need polymer;
= (40/ 1000) kg 
=0.04 kg
We need to convert kg to lbs, because our price of polymer on th lbs. So, as per above result;
= (0.04 x 2.2) lbs [ we know, 1kg = 2.2 lbs.]
= 0.088 lbs 
So, the cost of 1 pcs poly is; 
= Polymer needed for 1 pcs poly x rate of polymer per pound (lbs.)
= 0.088 x $0.40
= $ 0.035 / per pcs poly

We already know the calculation process of poly bag consumption and cost of per pcs poly bag. As per above formula, we can make one shortcut formula; 
(Length of poly bag + ½ flap) x width of poly bag x gauge / 3300 / 1000 x rate of polymer in pound (lbs.)

So, the cost of poly bag for 250000 pcs is; 
(Length of poly bag + ½ flap) x width of poly bag x gauge / 3300 / 1000 x rate of polymer in pound (lbs.)
= (28 + 5) x 25 x 160 / 3300 / 1000 x 2.2 x $0.40 [convert kg to lbs, 1 kg = 2.2 lbs]
= $0.035 x 250,000 pcs
= $8,800
So, the total cost of poly bag for 250,000 pcs is $8,800

Note: If you want to calculate per pcs poly costing then stop your calculation in second line or you can divide the total cost by total quantity (like, $8,800 / 250000 = $0.0352 per pcs).




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